Since first arriving on the Island of Pag one of my biggest desires was to visit the ancient olive groves in the village of Lun. I found it hard to believe the stories that some of the trees were almost 2000 years old so at the first opportunity I had to take a look for myself. What better guide for such a trip than the island’s very own evergreen curator of Novalja Museum and self confessed au courant of all things Pag, Vesna Denona.
First stop, Novalja museum.
Novalja museum’s primary focus is to bring the wealth cultural heritage from Novalja and the surroundings to an accessible point for local inhabitants as well as the throng of tourists in the summer. As well as exhibitions and displays of ancient local treasures, the museum is also home to one of the most interesting features of the island, the 1000 meter long Roman aqueduct which begins right beneath the museum itself.
It’s not normally allowed but Vesna allowed us to venture into the aqueduct to get a feel of the place. It’s really amazing to consider how the Romans must have carved such an impressive tunnel from solid rock, surely there must have been easier ways to bring water.
One of the tunnels first ventilation shafts surfaces in Vesna’s back garden providing an alternate route to work perhaps on a rainy days.
Next stop Lun and first a look at what unique island products are on offer. We stopped by one renowned producer of traditional sweets who can be found right at the very tip of the island selling her homemade delicacies from her home.
We also had time to say hello to one of the island’s premier sage honey producers. He tells us production levels are down compared to a few years ago which could be due to the dry winters we’ve had, but the quality is still there for all to see. Pag sage honey is a ‘must try’ for any visiting tourists not only for it’s super clean taste but it’s renowned for having highly medicinal qualities too.
Now it was time to turn our attentions to the true nature of our visit, the ancient olive groves. If you visit Lun you’ll see many amazing sights right next to the only road that goes through the village, but make sure you take the time to park the car and explore a little further, you wont regret a second of it.
It’s easy to miss the opening of the groves so you should ask someone local and they’ll be happy to show you.
I hope these photos capture some of the mysticism of the place and as it was for me, a silent journey taking in the sheer beauty of the place, I leave you to enjoy the photos.
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